X100VI Guide · ⚙️ Full Settings

Complete reference · every number verified against Fujifilm's official spec sheet

Every X100VI setting, in depth

Continuous shooting frame rates and exact buffer depths, autofocus, the ND filter and leaf shutter, IBIS, all 20 film simulations, every video mode and bitrate, and the universal starting settings for any situation.

Every spec on this page comes from Fujifilm's official X100VI specification sheet. Third-party reviews disagree on the burst numbers (you'll see "15fps mechanical" quoted around the web — that's wrong). The tables below are the manufacturer's figures.

🎛️ Where every setting actually lives

Recipes tell you what to set. This tells you which dial or menu. Every path below verified against the official manual.

⚠️ First: there is no PASM dial

This is the thing that confuses everyone coming from a normal camera. The X100VI has no Auto/P/A/S/M knob. The mode is decided by whether you set the shutter dial and the aperture ring to A or to a number.

Shutter dial (top)Aperture ring (lens)You get
Aa number (2, 2.8, 4, 5.6…)Aperture priority — this is "MODE: A" in every recipe
a numberAShutter priority
AAProgram (full auto exposure)
a numbera numberManual

Every recipe row → the exact control

Recipe saysWhere it isHow
MODE · A🎚️ Two physical controlsTurn the shutter speed dial (top plate) to A. Set the aperture ring to a real number. Done — that's aperture priority.
APERTURE · f/5.6🎚️ Aperture ringThe clicked ring around the lens barrel. Rotate to 5.6. Marked 2 · 2.8 · 4 · 5.6 · 8 · 11 · 16.
ISO · Auto 125–6400🎚️ Dial + 📋 menuLift the collar of the shutter speed dial and rotate — it's also the sensitivity dial — to A. Then set the range: MENU → A SHOOTING SETTING → ISO AUTO SETTING → AUTO1 and set MAX. SENSITIVITY = 6400.
MIN SHUTTER · 1/250📋 Same screenISO AUTO SETTING → MIN. SHUTTER SPEED → 1/250. This is what stops walking people blurring.
DRIVE · CH 13fps🔘 DRIVE buttonPress DRIVE/DELETE (back of camera) → choose CH HIGH SPEED BURST → then pick the frame advance rate.
AF · AF-S🎚️ Focus selectorThe physical slider on the front-left of the body. Three positions: S (single) · C (continuous) · M (manual). Slide to S.
AF · Single point📋 MenuMENU → AF/MF SETTING → AF MODE → SINGLE POINT. Move the point with the focus stick; resize it with the rear command dial.
AF · Face/Eye📋 MenuMENU → AF/MF SETTING → FACE/EYE DETECTION SETTING → Face ON, Eye Auto.
FILM SIM · Classic Chrome🔘 Q buttonPress Q → highlight the Film Simulation tile → turn a command dial. Or MENU → IMAGE QUALITY SETTING → FILM SIMULATION.
EXP. COMP · −⅓🎚️ Its own dialThe exposure compensation dial on the top plate, right side. One click toward −. Each click is ⅓ stop.
ND filter ON📋 Menu (map it!)MENU → A SHOOTING SETTING → ND FILTER → ON (4 EV). Assign it to a buttonMENU → BUTTON/DIAL SETTING → FUNCTION (Fn) SETTING — you'll use it constantly.
Pre-shot burst📋 MenuMENU → A SHOOTING SETTING → PRE-SHOT. Electronic shutter only.
Shutter type📋 MenuMENU → SHOOTING SETTING → SHUTTER TYPE → MS+ES.
Highlight / Shadow / Color / Clarity / Grain📋 MenuAll under MENU → IMAGE QUALITY SETTING, below Film Simulation.
Save as a bank (C1–C7)📋 MenuMENU → IMAGE QUALITY SETTING → EDIT/SAVE CUSTOM SETTING → CUSTOM 1–7.
Digital teleconverter (50/70mm)📋 Menu or ringMENU → A SHOOTING SETTING → DIGITAL TELE-CONV. — or assign it to the control ring around the lens.

✅ The five-minute version

If you only do this much, the universal recipe is live:

Steps 1, 2, 3, 5 and 7 are physical — no menus at all. Only 4 and 6 need the screen. Then save it: EDIT/SAVE CUSTOM SETTING → CUSTOM 1, and you never rebuild it.

Every menu path here was checked against the official manual — you can read the page itself in the built-in manual reader, or ask the AI assistant on the guide page.

⚡ The 15-minute setup — do this once

Out of the box the camera is set up for nobody. Fix these twelve things and never think about them again.

#SettingSet it toWhy
1Image QualityFINE + RAWJPEG you can post immediately, RAW you can rescue. The card is cheap; the moment isn't.
2Image SizeL 3:2Full 40MP. Crop later, not in camera.
3ISOAuto, 125–6400, min shutter 1/125Caps noise and guarantees a shutter fast enough to stop a walking person.
4Drive modeCH (electronic, 20fps)See the burst section — this is your default for anything with people in it.
5AF ModeSingle Point + AF-SYou decide what's sharp. Zone/wide guesses, and it guesses wrong on street.
6Face/Eye DetectionONOverrides the point whenever a person enters frame. Turn off only for still life.
7Focus CheckOFFAuto-zoom on manual focus is disorienting when you're shooting fast.
8Preview Exp./WB in ManualONThe EVF shows the actual exposure. This is the whole point of a mirrorless camera.
9Shutter TypeMS+ES (Mechanical priority)Mechanical for image quality, auto-switches to electronic past 1/4000.
10Fn button (front lever)ND FilterYour most-used control in daylight. One flick to shoot f/2 at noon.
11Q Menu slot 1Film SimulationThe thing you actually change most.
12IBISShooting OnlySaves battery vs Continuous, still stabilises the shot itself.

📐 Exposure — the dials, and what "A" does

The X100VI is a dial camera. There is no PASM knob — the mode emerges from what you set to A.

Shutter dialAperture ringYou getUse it for
ASet (f/2–f/16)Aperture priorityYour default. You pick the blur, camera picks the speed.
SetAShutter priorityFreezing action or forcing motion blur.
AAProgramHanding the camera to someone else.
SetSetManualStudio, night, or any scene with unchanging light.

Shutter speed ranges

Shutter typeP / A modesS / M modesBulb
Mechanical (leaf)30 sec – 1/400015 min – 1/4000up to 60 min
Electronic30 sec – 1/180,00015 min – 1/180,0001 sec fixed

ISO

Native: ISO 125–12,800 in ⅓ steps. Extended: 64, 80, 100, 25,600, 51,200.

Avoid the extended values. ISO 64/80/100 are pulled — they lose highlight dynamic range, they don't gain you quality. If you need less light, use the ND filter instead. ISO 25,600/51,200 are pushed and fall apart. Set your Auto-ISO ceiling to 6400 and treat 12,800 as an emergency.

🔥 Continuous shooting — every frame rate and buffer

Official Fujifilm figures. Buffer = frames before the camera slows down.

Electronic shutter (CH)

SpeedCropJPEGRAWLossless RAWWhen to use
20 fps1.29×1175235Peak action. Divers, skaters, kids, dogs. The crop makes it ~45mm equiv.
13 fps1.29×1465736Longer sequences — deeper buffer than 20fps.
10 fps1.29×1635936Longest cropped buffer. Sustained action.
13 fpsnone803824Best full-frame burst. Full 35mm field, still fast.
11 fpsnone383321Shallow JPEG buffer — 13fps is strictly better.
8.9 fpsnone843824Deeper buffer at a still-usable speed.
8.0 fpsnone763521Candid people — fast enough, easier to cull.

Mechanical shutter (CL)

SpeedJPEGRAWLossless RAWWhen to use
6.0 fps973623Fastest mechanical. Use when electronic rolling shutter is a problem.
5.0 fps1104225General mechanical burst.
4.0 fps1844826Deep buffer, relaxed pace.
3.0 fps5045729Nearly unlimited JPEG. Long events, ceremonies, anything you can't miss.

📸 Pre-shot burst — the one that feels like cheating

Half-press and the camera starts continuously filling the buffer without recording. When you fully press, it keeps roughly the last 20 frames from 0.5–1 second BEFORE you pressed.

⚠️ Rolling shutter — when NOT to use electronic

The electronic shutter reads the sensor line by line, so fast-moving subjects skew and hard artificial light can band. Switch to mechanical (CL) for: propellers and spinning wheels, whip pans, anything under LED stage lighting or older fluorescents, and flash work.

Bracketing & special drive modes

All available from the drive menu: AE Bracketing · Film Simulation Bracketing · Dynamic Range Bracketing · ISO Sensitivity Bracketing · White Balance Bracketing · Focus Bracketing · Multiple Exposure · HDR · Advanced Filter.

🎯 Autofocus — all modes

Intelligent Hybrid AF: TTL contrast + TTL phase detection, 425 selectable points.

ModeWhat it doesUse for
AF-S + Single PointLocks once on one pointDefault. Street, portraits, still life, anything not running at you.
AF-C + Single PointTracks continuously on one pointSomeone walking toward you. Pair with burst.
AF-C + Zone (3×3 → 7×7)Tracks within a block of pointsErratic movement — kids, dogs, sport. Bigger zone = more forgiving, less precise.
All-area / Wide TrackingCamera picksHanding the camera to a friend. Otherwise avoid — it favours whatever's closest.
MF + focus peakingYou focusZone-focusing street, shooting through glass or fences, sun in frame, macro.

Subject detection

The X100VI detects Animal · Bird · Automobile · Motorcycle & Bike · Airplane · Train. Pick one at a time — it isn't a general-purpose mode.

People are handled separately. Face/Eye Detection is its own menu item, not part of the subject-detection list. For photographing humans you want Face/Eye Detection ON and subject detection OFF — running both makes the camera hesitate.

Zone focusing — the street technique

Switch to MF, set f/8, and set focus to about 2.5 m / 8 ft. At 23mm and f/8 roughly everything from ~1.5 m to infinity is acceptably sharp. Now the camera has zero focus lag — press and it fires. This is how street photographers get shots that autofocus would miss.

🕶️ ND filter & leaf shutter — your two unfair advantages

The 4-stop built-in ND

A 4-stop neutral density filter lives inside the lens. One button and your exposure drops four stops with no colour shift and nothing to screw on.

The leaf shutter — flash sync at ANY speed

Most cameras cap flash sync around 1/200. The X100VI's leaf shutter opens and closes from the centre, so it syncs flash at any mechanical speed up to 1/4000.

🤚 IBIS — 5-axis, 6.0 stops

Sensor-shift stabilisation rated at 6.0 stops. Practically: the old "1/focal length" rule says 1/35s is your handheld floor. Six stops of correction takes that to roughly 1/2 second if you brace properly.

IBIS settingBehaviourUse
Shooting OnlyActive at the moment of captureDefault. Full benefit, much better battery.
ContinuousAlways on, including previewVideo, or when a steady viewfinder helps you compose.
OffDisabledOn a tripod — IBIS can fight a locked-off camera.

IBIS stops your shake, not your subject's motion. A person walking still needs 1/125 no matter how good the stabilisation is.

🎨 Image quality settings — what each slider actually does

SettingRangeWhat it doesStart at
Dynamic RangeDR100 / 200 / 400Protects highlights by underexposing then lifting. DR200 needs ISO 250+, DR400 needs ISO 500+.DR100, DR200 in harsh sun
Highlight Tone−2 … +4Contrast in the brights. Negative = protects skies and skin.−1
Shadow Tone−2 … +4Contrast in the darks. Negative = lifted, faded, filmic blacks.−1 to −2
Color−4 … +4Saturation.0 to +2
Sharpness−4 … +4Edge acutance. 40MP needs very little.−1 to 0
Noise Reduction−4 … +4High-ISO smoothing. High values turn detail into plastic.−4
Clarity−5 … +5Midtone local contrast. Negative = soft glow. slows the buffer−2 to 0
Grain EffectOff/Weak/Strong × Small/LargeAdds film grain.Weak / Small
Color Chrome EffectOff/Weak/StrongRecovers detail in deeply saturated colours (reds, flowers, sunsets).Strong
Color Chrome FX BlueOff/Weak/StrongSame, for blues. Deepens skies and water without touching skin.Strong
White Balance shiftR/B ±9Warm/cool bias on top of any WB.R+1 to R+2 for skin

🎞️ All 20 film simulations

SimulationCharacterReach for it when
PROVIA / StandardNeutral, balancedYou're unsure. The safe default.
Velvia / VividPunchy, high saturationLandscapes, autumn, blue water. Ruins skin.
ASTIA / SoftSoft contrast, kind skinPortraits in harsh light.
Classic ChromeMuted, documentary, warm-cool splitStreet, travel, summer. The most "expensive-looking" sim.
REALA ACEFaithful colour, hard tonalityNewest sim. Natural skin with contrast. Great all-rounder.
PRO Neg. HiPortrait, moderate contrastStudio and controlled light.
PRO Neg. StdFlattest colour simSkin you'll grade later.
Classic Neg.Shifted colour, hard edgesGrungy street, markets, nightlife.
Nostalgic Neg.Warm amber, lifted shadows70s road-trip feel, golden hour.
ETERNA / CinemaFlat, low saturationVideo, or stills you'll grade.
ETERNA Bleach BypassVery low sat, very high contrastMoody, industrial, rain.
ACROSB&W with the best grain structure Fuji makesAny black & white. Always choose ACROS over "Black & White".
ACROS +Ye / +R / +GYellow / Red / Green filtered B&W+R darkens skies hardest; +G flatters skin.
Black & White (+Ye/+R/+G)Plain monochromeLegacy. ACROS is better in every case.
SepiaBrown tonedRarely. It's there.

🎬 Video — every mode, frame rate and bitrate

Official figures. All modes support 10-bit 4:2:2 internal, F-Log and F-Log2.

ModeResolutionFrame ratesBitrateCrop
6.2K6.2K (≈6240 px wide)29.97 / 25 / 24 / 23.98p200 / 100 / 50 Mbps1.23× (≈43mm equiv)
4K / DCI 4K3840×2160 / 4096×2160up to 59.94p200 / 100 / 50 Mbpsnone up to 30p · 1.1× at 59.94p
Full HD1920×1080 / 2048×1080up to 59.94p200 / 100 / 50 Mbpsnone
High Speed1920×1080240 / 200 / 120 / 100pslow motion

⚠️ The UHS-I bottleneck

The X100VI has a single UHS-I card slot — that caps you at 200 Mbps. There is no point buying expensive UHS-II or V90 cards for this body; a solid V30 UHS-I card is all it can use. Buy capacity, not speed.

Video settings that actually matter

📐 Universal angles — the ten that always work

Composition rules that apply to every photo on the example gallery, regardless of subject.

AngleHowX100VI note
1 · Rule of thirdsSubject and horizon on the lines, not the middle.Turn the grid on: DISP/BACK → Framing Guideline
2 · Low angleDrop to knee height, tilt up, put sky behind.Flip the LCD up so you don't lie on the ground.
3 · High angle / straight downGet above and shoot down. Flattens into graphic shapes.Tilt screen down; keep the camera level or the effect breaks.
4 · Eye level, dead onSquare up, symmetrical, confrontational.Use the electronic level — dead-on only works if it's exact.
5 · Frame within a frameShoot through a doorway, arch, arms, foliage.f/2 blurs the frame; f/8 keeps it sharp. Both work, pick one.
6 · Leading linesRoads, rails, piers, shadows pointing at the subject.35mm is ideal — wide enough to include the line's full run.
7 · Near–farObject close in the corner, subject in the distance.f/8 keeps both readable. This is the depth trick.
8 · ReflectionsPuddles, windows, glass, water, sunglasses.Get low. Reflections appear at grazing angles.
9 · Backlight / into the sunSun behind subject, rim light on the edges.−1 EV, and the leaf shutter lets you add fill flash at any speed.
10 · Negative spaceSmall subject, huge empty area. Calm and confident.Resist filling the frame. Empty sky is a choice, not a mistake.

📋 Universal settings by scenario

Dial these in and start shooting. Adjust from there.

ScenarioModeApertureShutter / ISODrive & AFFilm sim
Street, daylightAf/5.6–8Auto ISO 125–6400, min 1/250CH 13fps FF · AF-S singleClassic Chrome
Street, zone focusAf/8Auto ISO, min 1/250MF @ 2.5m · no AF lagACROS
PortraitAf/2Auto ISO, min 1/125CL 5fps · AF-S + Face/EyeReala Ace / Astia
Action / jumpsSf/41/2000, ISO up to 6400CH 20fps + Pre-shot · AF-C zoneProvia
LandscapeAf/8Auto ISO 125, min 1/125Single · AF-SVelvia
Beach / water, middayAf/2–2.8 + ND ONAuto, −⅔ EVCH · AF-CClassic Chrome
Golden hourAf/2Auto, −⅔ EVAF-S + Face/EyeNostalgic Neg.
Blue hour / nightAf/2–2.8ISO 640–3200, 1/60 (IBIS)Single · AF-SClassic Neg.
Indoors / restaurantAf/2Auto ISO to 6400, min 1/60AF-S singleClassic Chrome
Concert / stageAf/2ISO 3200–12800, min 1/250CL mechanical (LED banding)Eterna Bleach Bypass
Video, outdoorsMf/4 + ND ON1/50 @ 24p, ISO 1254K30 · IBIS ContinuousEterna
Motion blur, daylightSf/16 + ND ON1/15 or slower, ISO 125Single · brace or tripodProvia

💾 Custom banks — set these seven and stop menu-diving

The X100VI stores seven custom setting banks (C1–C7), reachable from the Q menu. Program them once:

C1Street · Classic Chrome
C2Portrait · Reala Ace f/2
C3B&W · ACROS +R
C4Action · 20fps + Pre-shot
C5Night · high ISO
C6Beach · ND + Chrome
C7Video · Eterna 4K30

Save with Menu → IQ → Edit/Save Custom Setting. Note that custom banks store image-quality settings, not the physical dials — you still set aperture and shutter by hand.

Where to go next